First Waterfall in Bouma National Park

Bouma National Park

We decided to see the waterfalls made famous by the movie “Return to the Blue Lagoon” at Bouma National Park. We arranged for a taxi to pick us up from Bibi’s at 8:30 so we could arrive early and beat the crowds. Although, we were the first people there I don’t think there were any crowds to beat. When we left at noon there were only a handful of people there.

Bouma National Park is about an hour North of Bibi’s Hideaway. It probably isn’t that far away, but the bumpy dirt road requires slow driving. The drive is pretty, parts of it offer great views of the coast and you also pass a small village where I was surprised to see women doing their wash in the stream.

The entry fee to the park is $15 FJD and the taxi to and from was $60. The lady at the desk drew us a map of the waterfalls. The map isn’t essential but it is nice to have. Also, the bathrooms at the information desk are the only ones in the park.

Beatiful Path to Bouma's First Waterfall

The carefully manicured path to the first waterfall is a testament to how much the locals value the tourists. Don’t be fooled by the flat, easy walk, as the hikes to the second and third waterfalls become progressively more rugged.

First falls seen through trees on ascent to next falls

Tips
1.    Dress for swimming in the first falls, but bring tennis shoes or hiking shoes for the rest of the trip. There is a changing room by the first falls so you can remove your wet swimsuit.
2.    To get past the second waterfall you have to walk through the water, reef walkers would be ideal, but I just went bare-foot then put my shoes back on the other side.
3.    Bring Mosquito Repellent!
4.    The second waterfall has a picnic table, perfect for lunch.

After a couple attempts to make it to the center of the falls I was exhausted and had trouble with the steep climb to the next falls. Fortunately there were some benches about half-way up the hike, so after a moments rest I was ready for the rest of the climb.

Blue Tailed Skink at Bouma National Park

The coolest lizards, skinks maybe, ran all over the stairs to the second falls. At first glance they just look like the shiny skinks we have back home, but then I noticed they had bright, blue tails. They were so fast it made getting a clear photograph impossible, but Paul managed to get some decent shots.

Amazing view of Bouma National Park to Fiji Coastline

The hike is probably the most beautiful I’ve even been on. The lush, tropical foliage, with bright flowers was stunning. There is the most amazing view of the ocean, with a field of palm trees in front of the water, and then the wildlife – we saw huge parrots. They had blue and green wings with red chest. Listen for their loud squawk, and then look for movement in the tree tops!

The Guardians of the Path

As we approached the river crossing a bright-purple crab stood in the middle of the path, waving is claws menacingly if we tried to hop over him. I was a little nervous to jump over the large snappers, so we tried scaring him off by waving sticks and throwing leaves in his direction. The crab would not budge! He would grab and shake the leaves that flew too close to his outstretched claws. He looked like a goalie refusing to let anything by.

Purple Crab Blocking the Path

There were a few more of the purple guardians on the path, but none were as menacing as the first. They all guarded their territory fiercely, forcing us to jump over them. We were only able to scare one off to the side, but as we hurried past he leapt toward us with his pinchers ready!

Pink and White Puffball found all over Fiji

Finding Your Way

Any time the path split we went left. There is a river crossing where your only bridge is a rope to hold onto and boulders to jump. The path from the second waterfall can be difficult to see – walk on the rocks to the front of the waterfall, there is a path to the right of the falls, look for the sign. You must take off your shoes and cross the river to get to the path. On the way back from the third falls, take the small bridge on the left and you’ll bypass the 2nd waterfall and take a jungle stroll instead.

Second Falls at Bouma National Park

We only swam in the first waterfall, but I guess you could take a dip in the other two. Neither one of the others has a nice sandy beach entrance, so you would have to maneuver around the boulders, probably manageable if you have reef walkers.

Beautiful foliage at Bouma National Park

The entire hike took us four hours, but you could certainly do it faster if you were pressed for time. We took time to swim, eat and enjoy the scenery – taking many stops for pictures and crab encounters!

Third Falls at Bouma National Park

While the first waterfall seemed like something from a fairy tale, the last waterfall looks like something from an adventure magazine. This falls is close the rocky cliff creating lots of small splashes instead of the smooth flow the first waterfall. If splits off at the top forming two separate falls and there is a large pool in the center of the cliff, which makes one of the falls actually two shorter cascades. There are so many fantastic angles to get a great shot, plan on spending a lot of time at this waterfall.

We had a fantastic time and I am so happy we decided to go on this trip. Not only do we have beautiful memories of all the places we saw, but we shared the amazing experience and our marriage will be stronger because of it.

If you are thinking of taking a long trip – do it! Don’t worry about all the reasons not to go – just go!

Master Bedroom in White Cottage

1. There isn’t any way to hang your clothes, except outside on the clothes line, so plan accordingly. There are dressers to put your clothes away, but if you were planning on letting the wrinkles fall out of a dress you’ll have to rig something. You could bring wire hangers and bend them to fit into some crack in the bamboo.
2. Write down the high and low tides for each day before you arrive, so you can plan your snorkel trips accordingly. You want to go out just before high tide and return not to long after hide tide so you don’t get stuck or end up with coral scratches on your belly.
3. Bring soap and shampoo. The bures come with toilet paper, tea, coffee, powdered creamer and sugar, but no toiletries you would expect at a typical hotel.
   

   Gas Range for Cooking

4. The fridge is gas powered so it runs 24 hours a day. You also have a gas stovetop for cooking.
5. Bring mosquito repellent. There are screens on the windows, which helps greatly, but there must be holes. Bibi’s does provide a few mozzi-repelling incense things.
6. Bring your own snorkel gear, (mask, fin, snorkel) so you can snorkel for free at the beach down the hill.
7. Plan on walking a lot – so get very comfortable flip-flops. I find the cloth Reefs wonderful, but try walking for 30 minutes in yours before coming. The plastic ones will not do.
8. Bring plenty of cash, few places take credit and they charge an extra 5%.
9. If you don’t want dogs hanging out around your bure, tell them to ‘go home’ from the very beginning.
   

   Paulina brough over fresh pineapple and cucumber one morning

10. The tangerines are still sweet even when they are green. If you can’t find any ripe fruit, pick it while it is green and leave in on the counter for 1-3 days. You may be pleasantly surprised!
11. Don’t forget to charge batteries for your camera, or whatever, between 6-9.
12. There are a couple stores nearby. The closest is next door, but has a limited selection. The next is to the right it is a few minutes past Coconut Grove and they sell alcohol and beer. The largest is a few minutes farther down the road, past the pretty beach, is the largest grocery store. Don’t expect a supermarket, but you can get some nice Indian soups that go great with rice. Also, there are always taxis around the last store, so stock up and then take a taxi home for $3 Fijian.
13. Taxi from the airport is only $2 Fijian.
    

    Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris, small blue bird with white chest and golden eyebrows

14. Early mornings and evenings are great for bird watching on the property. We didn’t see the famous orange dove, but we saw a large Fiji Goshawk just outside our room. The little blue bird photographed above was always around, along with little green birds.
15. The public beach is to the left of Bibi’s. It is not just across the street, but a couple minutes walk down the hill. You’ll pass a couple private beaches and then see a red bridge which crosses to the beach. If you reach the dive shop you went too far, but they allow you to swim there also. Prince Charles is a little farther down, just pass Tramonto Restaurant.
16. The snorkeling is a little better at Prince Charles, but it isn’t that great – maybe because of Hurricane damage. If you haven’t had amazing snorkeling before you’ll love it. Lots of fish, but the coral is damaged.
17. Bibi’s is a great place to stay, but don’t expect the amenities of a resort. Paulina and Jim are very friendly and helpful, but you should do your research before you come. Keep a list of things you want to see – all the taxi drivers know where everything is located. Don’t plan on walking to a hotel lobby and having someone suggest a day’s activities.
    

    Indian Food provided by Krish from next door

18. The neighbor next door (before the store) provides Indian food for $10 Fijian or a Fijian Lovo for $15. It is great and is delivered to your door! Just ask for it sometime during the day.
19. Taxi prices vary, we were charged $70 Fijian to get to Bouma Park and back. The driver waited for us, so we didn’t have to worry about setting a return time. The coastal walk and triple waterfall hike were the same price. It is $40 to get to the water slides.

This may sound like a list of reasons not to stay at Bibi’s – but I loved it! I just want to pass some information along. Paulina and Jim are very nice and helpful. They even brought us fresh pineapple one morning. I loved the privacy of the bure and not having to talk to someone in a hotel lobby every morning. We could go days without talking to Paulina or we could join her for a cup of tea.

Enjoying the sunset from the Honeymoon Bure

For more, check out this Bibi’s Hideaway Photo Gallery page.

]]> http://www.newzealandtravelpictures.com/blog/bibis-hideaway-review-tips/feed/ 2 http://www.newzealandtravelpictures.com/blog/first-day-in-taveuni-fiji/ http://www.newzealandtravelpictures.com/blog/first-day-in-taveuni-fiji/#comments Sun, 13 Jun 2010 17:24:47 +0000 admin http://www.newzealandtravelpictures.com/blog/?p=1344

Aerial Photo of Rainbow Reef

We arrived at Bibi’s Hideaway on June 1, 2010 a few months after the devastating Cyclone Tomas. The estate was beautiful, but the signs of the hurricane were obvious. Thirty foot palm trees littered the lawn and large bushes were half uprooted and struggling to stay green. The bures appeared to be in perfect condition and I read the reefs around the island sustained only minor damage. Unfortunately the high winds had knocked down all of the fruit, so we wouldn’t be able to pick our breakfast from the numerous fruit trees located on the property.

Young Pineapple Fruit At Bibi's

A change in flight times had us land in Taveuni around 8:00 AM, four hours before we were expected. Paulina, the caretaker at Bibi’s, welcomed us with a smile and showed us to the large white cottage. We had reserved the Honeymoon Bure, but as guest has just checked out that morning it wasn’t read for us. Paulina assured us that we had full use of the other cottage, we could shower, cook or nap until our bure was cleaned. We didn’t want to create more work for her by dirtying the cottage, so we decided to walk over to Coconut Gove for Breakfast.

Coconut Grove Resort - Matei, Taveuni

We were a little worried we had missed it during our walk, as it was slightly farther than we had expected, but once you are familiar with the area you realize it is a short walk. Coconut Grove’s restaurant is located on the second floor of the resort with an excellent view of the ocean. Coconut Grove is a small resort, with only a few bures and a small restaurant. They also sell a few things in the reception area, some pearls, sarongs and postcards. People rave about the cooking at coconut grove, but I’ve only tried the fruit shakes and the grilled cheese.

Prince Charles Beach, Taveuni

The weather was perfect – warm air, lots of sun and a cool breeze. We spent the afternoon walking on the beach and dipping into the ocean to cool off. The water is crystal clear and unlike so many beaches I’ve visited I didn’t see a single piece of trash floating in the water.

On our way back from the beach we ran into the Indian man who lives next door to Bibi’s and provides dinner to the guest. We were so excited to have dinner delivered for only $10 Fijian! He knocked on our door at about 7pm with two warm plates of chicken curry, some dahl soup, and a pumpkin side dish all over rice. The dinner was delicious! It wasn’t spicy, but it was so flavorful! I haven’t eaten much Indian food, and Paul’s had it even less frequently than I have, so coming here and eating it all the time has been a real treat. We can’t wait to go home and try to cook it ourselves.

I thought having only 3 hours of electricity would be bothersome, but we actually shut off the lights before the power went out at 9pm. I was exhausted and the warm air was so relaxing after the freezing nights in New Zealand. As much as we enjoyed New Zealand, nothing compares to being in a tropical climate.

Friendly Dog At Bibi's Hideaway

Wai O Tapu Mud Pools

There are lots of bubbling mud pits in and around Rotorura, but I think the coolest place to see mud boil is at the Wai O Tapu Mud Pools. The Wai O Tapu Thermal Wonderland boast sulfur pits, colored pools, boiling mud and a geyser for a $30 admission free, but the mud pools, which are located just north of the park, are free!

Boiling Mud

Bubbling Mud

The mud pools is actually one huge pit, not a series of small pools. This is what makes it unique from the many other mud pits in the area. The area smells, just like the rest of Rotorura, but it doesn’t have the horribly inescapable stench of the Wonderland Park.

The pit is located just a few feet from the car park and there is a short boardwalk that runs along one side of mud pond.

Mud Bubble Popping

The pictures just don’t do this place justice. As soon as you step to the side of pit you can hear the mud boilings and splashing. If you are in the area, definitely check out the Wai O Tapu Mud Pools!

Mud Rings

Lady Knox Geyser Erupting

I wasn’t a big fan of the Wai O Tapu Thermal Wonderland because the sulfur smell made me sick, but the Lady Knox Geyser is really cool. We almost didn’t go to this attraction because after getting sick at the park I was afraid to go back to the area. I love the bubbling mud in the thermal areas, but if there isn’t a lot of open space to allow fresh air I just can’t handle it.

Luckily we had to go back to Rotorura to deliver our kayak to the Trademe auction winner, so we decided to stop by the Lady Knox Geyser on the way up. Admission to the geyser is included when you purchase a ticket to the Thermal Wonderland and they give you a separate ticket so you can see the geyser on another day. We had bought the ticket a month before visiting the geyser and they still accepted it.

The geyser erupts at 10:15 every day, but unlike Old Faithful it isn’t a perfectly timed natural occurrence. The geyser is natural and would erupt without human intervention, but the park gives it a little push so it erupts like clockwork.

To make the geyser explode a park attendant adds a little bit of soap to break the surface tension which causes the water to boil. I’ve actually seen this happen at home with a pot of boiling water. If you sprinkle salt into a pot that has been resting on heat at just the right moment you will see it boil as soon as the salt touches the water. I’m not going to go into the science behind this – I have vague memories of learning the ‘why’ in my high school physics class. They explain the reaction at the geyser or you can Google it.

Beginning of Geyser Eruption

It was really interesting how the geyser was discovered. The area was part of a prison yard and the prisoners would use the hot pool to wash their clothes. One day when a man dumped some soap into the pit it exploded! You can imagine the scene: a dozen half naked guys sitting around a small hole when water and clothes spray everywhere. After everyone dunked for cover and realized it was just a little water not a serious explosion they began to play with the geyser. Back then the geyser wasn’t built up to look like a volcano and had a much shorter spray of water. They hauled rocks to the edge of the pool and over time the sulfur and minerals in the water formed the volcano mouth you see now.

The eruption lasts for several minutes, so if you are standing around the edge you can walk around to get pictures from different angles. If you are on the first few rows, be prepared to get wet!

Lady Knox Geyser

Wai O Tapu Thermal Wonderland

The Wai O Tapu Thermal Wonderland was one of the more expensive attractions we visited during our New Zealand trip. (Fortunately the best stuff is free.) I’m not sure if I would recommend the thermal park to most visitors, as you can see lots of thermal activity in Rotorura for free. Although, if you are into photography the green and yellow pools and mud pits are definitely a unique things to capture.

I would probably have a better opinion of the place if I hadn’t gotten sick from the smell during the first 10 minutes of our walk. Many people have a strong reaction to the smell. My brother-in-law sneezed and coughed for the first few minutes, but eventually got used to it. Unfortunately my headache and stomach-ache just increased with every breath of the putrid smell.

Champagne Pool

The worst of the smell is by the Artist Palette and Champagne Pool near the beginning of the park. These large thermal pools are unique due to the color and it is pretty cool to see people on the other side of the pools engulfed in steam.

Devil's Ink Pots

One of the more entertaining parts of the park were the names of all the different mud pools. It was definitely a creative team that went around and named each section of the Thermal Wonderland.

Oyster Pool

Wai O Tapu is Maori for ’sacred waters’ and it is easy to see why the native people would consider these hot springs of water sacred. I couldn’t imagine being the first person in my tribe to discover a pit of boiling water in the earth. I learned at another park that the Maori people would use the thermal water to cook their food. I wonder if they used pots, or just put meat directly into the water. I believe it would make me sick, consider the smell made me feel so ill.

Yellow Boiling Mud

I was tempted to increase the saturation of these photos to show you how amazing the colors were, but I was afraid I might overdue it. The colors were even more vibrant in person, which is surprising – you just don’t expect to see yellow mud.

Wai O Tapu Waterfall

I love waterfalls, so I was delighted to see a thermal waterfall at the back of the park.

Devil's Bath

The eerily green pool at the end of the park is aptly named Devil’s Bath. There are actually many references to the Devil throughout the park and I cannot help but wonder what the Maori people think about this as it was sacred to them.

Ngatoroirangi, Depicted on Cliff-side Carving

The Maori Carvings on Lake Taupo are one of the area’s most famous attractions, before I even left Miami I knew this was something I wanted to see.

Finding the 30 foot high cliff-side carving was a little more difficult than I had imagined. There were plenty of kayaking tours that would provide a guide all the way to the carving, or you could take an easier route and go on a small yacht or a peaceful sailboat. Unfortunately there was no map for the independent traveler – we already owned our kayak so we just wanted a location and launch point. We consulted several maps, free maps, maps in guide books and the AA (AAA back home) maps, but none of them marked the precise location of the carvings. We eventually read that the carvings were in Mines Bay and that we could launch from Acacia Bay.

Where are the Maori Carvings?

The Maori Carvings are located on the Northwest part of Lake Taupo in Mines Bay. There isn’t a place to launch a kayak or boat in Mines Bay, so you must find a public park or dock farther north of the carvings. If you are looking for the closest launch location head Southwest from Taupo down Acacia Bay Road. Look for the sign for the boat ramp and just beyond that is a small public beach. You have to have a permit to launch at the boat ramp, but the public beach is free for kayakers. It is a little tricky getting your kayak down the hill from the parking lot to the beach, but the trouble is worth it.

Maori Carvings face South, so be careful not to paddle past them

When you paddle south to Mines Bay stay close to the coast or you could easily pass the carvings as we did. I believe I read that the carvings were about a 90 minute paddle from Acacia Bay, but the entire trip took us over 5 hours. We went quite a ways pass the carvings, which was frustrating, but also gave us an amazing place to have a private picnic and swim. The coast curves in and out and it is faster to paddle straight to the edge of each curve, but I would only skip the first two curves unless you know exactly where you are going. If you are paddling for a while without seeing any houses – you’ve probably gone too far. Also, don’t be afraid to ask the many boaters in the water, everyone is very friendly and will kindly point you in the right direction.

Tip: Bring plenty of water, food and sunscreen. Also, if you aren’t an experienced kayaker light gloves can really help protect your hands from blisters.

Smooth Lava Rock on Lake Taupo

Beach just pass the Maori Carvings on Lake Taupo

A Picnic Spot and Swimming Location on Ancient Lava

Just one inlet pass the carvings is where we decided to break for a picnic and swim. There was a pebble beach where we docked our kayak. Next to the rocky beach were huge smooth rock formations. I believe they are ancient lava formations, because the smooth texture was similar to the rocks in Tree Trunk Gorge. The large rock shore broke in a few places which created these small waterways which were nice and warm and protected you from the lake waves. The edge of the rock ended in a perfect cliff for jumping into the lake. There was no one around so it is the perfect place to picnic and enjoy a private swim.

The Maori Carvings

Finally we retraced our steps (or paddle strokes) and ended up at the Maori Carvings. We had to wait our turn as there were several large boats and other kayaks crowding around the 30 foot artwork. We had a pretty good view of the large face of Ngatoroirangi even from faraway, and I was tempted to just paddle back rather than wait our turn. Luckily before I lost patience all the large boats parted and we were able to approach Matahi Whakataka-Brightwell’s masterpiece.

Celtic South Wind- represents New Zealand mix culture

The largest and most pictured part of the carving is the famous 30 foot face of Ngatoroirangi, a Maori navigator who led the Tuwharetoa and Te Arawa tribes to the Taupo area over a thousand years ago. The carvings took four years to complete, as Matahi and his friends could only work during the summers. Matahi carved the figures into the cliff to honor Maori traditions and celebrate the multiple cultures that make up New Zealand, that is why the smaller carvings include Celtic designs. He did the carving free of charge, only accepting some small fund-raising to pay for the scaffolding needed. It was a gift that has brought Taupo fame for over three decades and will be cherished for years to come as tourist and Kiwis alike paddle in Lake Taupo to marvel at the cliff-side drawings.

Sailboat in front of Maori Carvings

I am so happy we waited to get an up close view of the carvings, because besides the large face there are several small sculptures surrounding the area. My favorite was an enormous lizard that lounged on the rocks. I wanted to climb on top of it for a picture, but I was sure if the carving were sacred or if it would be offensive to the artist so I stayed in my kayak. There were lots of figures on the rocks that I couldn’t make out, but I did recognize the south wind and a mermaid which I had read that Matahi carved.

Lizard and other small carvings on Lake Taupo

Tip: Be careful when you enter the small bay of the carvings, when large boats approach the waters become very rough. We witnessed an experienced kayaker smash into the wall and overturn. He quickly righted himself, but we wouldn’t have been so lucky if put in the same situation.

Paddling back to Acacia Bay was exhausting. We were out for over five hours and my arms ached. Luckily Paul did most of the work, but even he was fading from the days activities. It is definitely doable, especially if you don’t paddle past the carvings, but if you’ve never kayaked before I would definitely recommend using one of the many guides available.

Mermaid carved by Matahi Whakataka-Brightwell

Peach Rose at the Parnell Rose Garden

I love the Parnell Rose Garden at the edge of Dove Myer Robinson Park. It has over 4,500 rose bushes in every color you can imagine. When we stumbled upon this little treasure I was shocked that it was free!

Parnells on the Rose Garden Cottage

Next to the rose garden is a gorgeous little cottage that is perfect for a wedding reception or other party. The cottage isn’t as small as it seems; there is room for 150 dinner guest or 300 for cocktails.

Rose Bushes at Parnell Rose Garden

The Parnell neighborhood surrounding the garden is absolutely idealistic for a stroll. We walked to the downtown area which has lots of trendy restaurants and cute shops.

Entrance of Parnell Rose Garden